Runway Date: FEBRUARY 06, 2014, NEW YORK
Latest collection of 10 Crosby Derek Lam is the ‘lava Pottery’ inspired from twentieth Century Germany. The unique collection might not be a sexiest inspiration, but it yielded several terrific coats cut from an ombré brushed mohair wool that closely mirrored the collectible ceramics. Lining up to anchor the collection , the textured toppers also got design director Elizabeth Giardina thinking about what modern artists might wear while working (she referenced Louise Bourgeois and Diane Arbus). The idea gave rise to pairs of utilitarian leather “studio pants” with a tapered, slightly baggy fit, and their matching boxy smock tops.
Picture source: style.com
In another place, Giardina’s focus was primarily developing texture with custom fabrications including bonded neoprene, which was hand-spray-painted to speckled and spectacular effect, and needle-punched cotton voile. The silhouette here was generally relaxed. “Volume is really important, but it was also about maintaining the integrity of the waist,” said Giardina, pointing out pleated A-line skirts that hit just below mid-calf. Fur, both real and faux, played a significant role too, with indigo-hued fox vests and a mint-colored coat that appeared to be sheer but was in fact 100 percent mohair. While Derek Lam recently moved into a larger office space farther uptown, leaving behind 10 Crosby’s namesake address—the line coolly maintains its decidedly downtown sensibility. The downtown sensibility further portrays its effect and its sheer magnificence in the collection.
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